Why top food critic Jay Rayner loves Sam & Jak in Cirencester

Jay Rayner is a well-known British food critic, journalist and broadcaster, celebrated for his sharp insights into the culinary world and recently visited Sam & Jak in Cricklade Street, Cirencester. 

This restaurant is a relatively new addition to the town centre, as Sam Edwards and Jak Doggett only opened the restaurant in Cricklade Street in 2021.

The pair met while working at Made By Bob in 2009 and ran The Upton Firehouse in Burford between 2019 - 2022.

Sam & Jak is split over two floors with a private dining room on the first floor, while the ground floor is home to the bar and kitchen which contains a large wood fired oven.

Rayner has eaten at some of the top restaurants in the country and hosted BBC Radio 4 series Kitchen Cabinet, but described Sam & Jak of as a 'beguiling little bistro' which served food prepared by people 'who give a toss'.

Writing in The Guardian on Sunday, October 1, the critic labelled his review of the Cirencester-based bistro as ‘A story of skills and good taste’.

He described the menu as 'tight and in places, market-sensitive' attaining familiar favourites such as steak and chip options as well as 'flourishes and pizzazz' such as deep-fried cod cheeks with Korean mayo.

He went on to single out the restaurant's fish cookery for particular praise.

Rayner wrote: "Fish cookery is a strength here.

"The fillets of a lemon sole slip from the bones as if it simply can’t wait to get its kit off.

"And yet it retains bite and tension."

Rayner also tried the satsuma-orange trout tartare, and said he enjoyed how the bead of trout burst against the roof of his mouth.

He was also very happy to be given a family-size bottle of Tabasco with his oysters.

Rayner finished the review off with the remark: "Everyone at Sam & Jak knows exactly what they’re doing.

"The result is the kind of meal you always hope for and don’t always get."

To see the full review visit tinyurl.com/4sadj7mv