I VISITED The Dial House in Bourton-on-the-Water shortly after its restaurant had been awarded three AA rosettes, putting it amongst some seriously exalted company.

To be recognised as one of the best fine dining options in the Cotswolds and beyond, shows the high standards on offer in both culinary standards and service of staff.

So it was an exciting prospect to pitch-up at the magnificent building set back from the main road through the tourist magnet town, famed for its beautiful, winding river. Albeit on a foul day where tourists were at a premium, due to the unedifying exploits of Storm Imogen which brought lashing rain and high winds - good job I was planning to stay inside.

Leaving the inclement weather at the door, I was greeted warmly at reception and shown to my lovely room which had a very gothic tone, complete with low lighting, chandeliers and four poster bed. Save for the flatscreen television on the wall and table lamps, I could have been shown through the door into a completely different era.

This room was perfect for hunkering down to relax and enjoy, away from the storm. As I read up on the hotel in the literature provided, I ran a bath in the very deep, claw foot tub, which was placed invitingly at the end of a modern bathroom which was a good size and had pleasant roof lighting.

After getting dressed for dinner - jackets are preferred in the fairly formal restaurant - I met my dinner guest and we were shown to a cosy lounge where a log fire was burning away and swiftly ordered a couple of glasses of Chilean wine. I loved the stylish layout and furniture in the room, from the eye-catching chequerboard rug, to the perfectly-proportioned tables.

As we enjoyed the welcoming atmosphere, our waiter delivered the first of the mouthwatering morsels which we would enjoy through the evening. The finely presented canapes were served on a black slate and included a goats cheese ball with a cube of apple skewered together and a profiterole style construction which ingeniously combined savoury and sweet, with a duck liver parfait filling and toffee topping. Sounds ambitious, but it worked.

We also enjoyed salmon mousse with a caper, presented on a metal spoon with stand.

After making our orders and moving to the restaurant we were served a frothy celeriac soup, presented in a small mug; resembling coffee visually and in consistency. A spoonful of celeriac alongside it would set the tone for the numerous variations in which the chef uses his tasty ingredients.

My starter was a delicious pave of Loch Duart salmon, which the menu informed me was served with variations of cucumber - not the most flavoursome of vegetable you might think. But how wrong can you be? I was presented with cucumber in all its possible forms, jellified in small circles, grilled, and served immaculately alongside crème fraiche dotted around the plate. It is clear that a huge amount of pride goes into presentation.

However, the real star of the show was the wasabi sorbet. Two polar opposite ingredients fused together in a style Heston Blumenthal would be proud of. Not many people would put the two together which shows great vision and imagination which is something I really appreciate in all forms of life - including on the plate.

My main course was Anjou Rabbit with poached and seared loin, liver, foie gras sausage and vegetables. Again, the plate was presented with such grace and skill that it seemed a shame to disturb it. But I quickly decided against that idea and tucked in to the tender meat.

For dessert I enjoyed a chocolate and black cherry bake with melted, oozing chocolate pouring out of the sponge onto the plate. Our server had instructed me it was a twenty minute wait for the sponge to be cooked, but that was no problem at all as I enjoyed the warm atmosphere inside the restaurant, gazing out of the window as the rain lashed down. I was certainly in the right place.

Head chef Paul Nicholson has a huge amount of creativity and talent as well as making use of high quality local ingredients whenever possible. It is clear to see why the AA decided to bestow three rosettes at The Dial House - an accolade only given to a chosen few outstanding restaurants well-known beyond their immediate catchment area.

After a night in my comfortable room I headed downstairs to the restaurant for breakfast as the rain continued outside and the banks of the nearby River Windrush were required to show some steely resolve. I enjoyed freshly cooked croissants with butter and a glass of refreshing orange juice before ordering the full English - you have to don't you?

It contained all the usual ingredients, sausages, bacon, poached eggs and black pudding but presented with the touch of style you would expect from such an establishment.

Overall, I was massively impressed by the whole operation, from the front desk to the kitchen and beyond. In a competitive industry and in a very competitive area in terms of tourists and fine dining options, The Dial House stands out as a hallmark of quality. I would happily recommend to people, especially couples, who are celebrating a special event or for a weekend treat.

To eat this way too often may spoil the magic but it truly is a memorable experience which I will look forward to again in future.

My plans for a relaxing walk along the river may have been dashed by the horrendous weather but nothing could put a damper on my stay.

For more information and to have a closer look for yourself, visit dialhousehotel.com

 

  • The Dial House is just 30 minutes travel from Cheltenham Racecourse and could be a winning option for race-goers during the upcoming Cheltenham Festival which takes place between March 15 - 18.

The famous course holds race meets as well as numerous events throughout the year. Visit thefestival2016.co.uk for details and tickets.

  • Any doting children could also surprise their mum with a stay or dinner at The Dial House as a Mothers Day treat. This year, the big day falls on Sunday, March 6.