WHETHER you judge it as a restaurant or gastropub, The Tavern is a success.

With 43 dishes on the placemat menu and a vast and ever-changing drinks list, The Tavern is both gourmet dining and your local boozer so there is an inevitable risk of becoming a jack of all trades but master of none.

However, judging by my experience, the place is a master of all and richly deserving of its Michelin Bib Gourmand – the award for less formal eateries.

From start to finish the food was faultless. I began with octopus with potato, red Onion and parsley while my friend had the steamed mussels with nduja, fennel and white wine (both £8). For my main, I took the brave option of kid goat faggots with mashed potato and cabbage while my companion chose the pappardelle with mushrooms, butternut squash and kale (both £14). To finish, we went with the chocolate and nut brownie with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce, and the apple and rhubarb crumble with rum and raisin ice-cream (both £6).

Each dish was perfect – definitely more top restaurant quality than pub fare, and the drinks were equally impressive. The Dunkertons Organic (£4 a pint) – the work of Superdry founder Julian Dunkerton, a financial backer of The Tavern – met my high cider standards, while my friend, a white wine buff, was glowing with praise for the Picpoul de Pinet (£4 for 125ml).

Just a short walk from Cheltenham’s Promenade, The Tavern is conveniently located but does suffer from a view which offers only an up-close look at a tyre-fitting centre. However, inside the friendly staff, bare brick walls and vintage light fittings combine to create a relaxed atmosphere.

The Tavern is owned by couple Sam and Georgina Pearman and part of their Lucky Onion group, which includes hotels No.131 and No.38 The Park, also in Cheltenham, as well as Northleach’s The Wheatsheaf Inn.

Small-but-growing, Lucky Onion is known for an eye for detail, and that attentiveness has ensured The Tavern is a triumph.

4/5

thetaverncheltenham.com