Cotswold Essence discovers a taste of the Mediterranean... in Michinhampton

Although it may seem there is nothing in this country to compare to the home-cooked food of rural France, thanks to the eccentric charms of Sophie's Restaurant in Minchinhampton, Francophiles can have a taste of the Mediterranean on their doorstep.

Overlooking the market square in this tourist backwater, Sophie's is certainly not like other restaurants. It's proprietor, Sophie Craddock, learnt to cook at home from her Basque mother, and she and her husband Mark are extraordinarily welcoming hosts, providing you with gushing explanations of what is on the menu and why ('We found this great cheese in the Pyrenees...' '...We've been overrun with figs from the garden so Sophie made a compte...').

But perhaps the greatest quirk of Sophie's Restaurant is that it isn't open all of the time. In fact, despite being available for coffee and lunch every day, Sophie and Mark only open the restaurant on selected evenings during the month. All perfectly understandable when you learn they have six-year-old triplets.

So it was with great relief that I learned Mark had managed to 'squeeze us in'. The squeezing turned out to be lovely - a spacious table in one of several intimate rooms in the original old house.

Reluctantly deciding to opt out of the soup course (Fish Soup with Rouille, Croutons and Gruyere), we opted for Salade Basquaise and Foie Gras followed by Wild Sea Bass Fillet and Loin of Veal.

The salad was huge and teeming with chorizo, really sweet red peppers and pine nuts, and the foie gras arrived with a terrine of duck, pork and armagnac with plenty of the famed fig compte.

The main courses were just as delightful, and came with refreshingly little fuss and presentation. The sea bass takes pride of place as one of the best pieces of fish I have had, and the roasted tomatoes hadn't suffered from being baked one little bit.

The veal (lovingly described as 'happy veal' in the window of Taylor's butchers of Minchinhampton) came with authentic French lardons and a light vin doux sauce. After much swapping and tasting, all plates were clean.

A green salad was then offered between courses, and then cheese. Desserts were chosen as French Pears and Peaches cooked with Rum and served with Blackcurrant Sorbet, and Chocolate Delice with Fresh Raspberries and Mulberries served with Pistachio Ice Cream, but could easily have been the Greengage Tart or the Coupe Agenaise.

Eating at Sophie's is certainly unique. First, you have to plan your evening a bit, as the opening times can be tricky. But as Sophie says, "It doesn't work against us - in fact, it ensures people don't take us for granted."

Second, it is the food, and not the atmosphere, that is posh, so you will need to come prepared to actually have a conversation with whoever your companion is. Third, you will suddenly learn how to eat like a Frenchman - Sophie's emphasis is on enjoying the process of eating and on marrying wines with seasonal ingredients.

So what is Sophie's Restaurant, famed throughout the Cotswolds, really like? Like having dinner in someone else's front room? Like a little piece of France in the heart of Minchinhampton? Like an impromptu party with friends you've known for years?

Yes to all the above, and that's what ensures that, even if Sophie only opened once a year, her customers would never forget her.

Sophie's Restaurant, The Priory, Minchinhampton Tel. 01453 885188