Table Manors

The Conservatory Restaurant at Calcot Manor was given its 'new look' in May 2004, and despite not knowing what the 'old look' was like, I can't help but be impressed.

The eating area is light and spacious, French windows overlook the beautifully tended gardens, and a modern display kitchen with mosaic wood oven buzzes in the corner.

Palm fronds and chandeliers give the room a luxurious, almost colonial feel, and the neighbouring champagne bar is a decadent addition to the eating/drinking set-up.

Executive chef Michael Croft describes the food in the Conservatory as 'simple, superbly cooked food that is well-composed and packed with flavour', and, for once, what turns up on the plates actually follows this philosophy.

Starters such as Dressed Cornish Crab with Lemon and Dill Mayonnaise have been fussed over remarkably little, but the complexity of the Sweetcorn Ravioli and Saut Wild Mushrooms with Parmesan and Truffle Emulsion showcases an obvious talent. So they know when to elaborate and when to leave well alone.

A large proportion of the meat served in the Conservatory is organic and a lot is locally produced (in fact, my only criticism is that there are few vegetarian options as starters and none as main courses).

We opt for Roast Chump and Braised Neck of Highgrove Estate Lamb with Pea and Mascarpone Cappelletti, Reduced Braising Juices and Mint Oil, and Roast Rump of Highgrove Estate Beef with Provenale Vegetables and Dauphinoise Potatoes. So Prince Charles did rather well out of it, one may say.

As with the pasta starter, the Cappelletti are cooked so that they melt in the mouth. This, we are told, is due to the special pasta boiler the Conservatory kitchen houses, which is kept at boiling point all the time so that the freshly made pasta can simply be plunged into it for three minutes. Whatever the science of that, pasta lovers can be assured they won't be disappointed.

The dessert menu is where a lot of chefs show their mettle, but Calcot's offering is surprisingly subdued. Most of the desserts seem incredibly simple, and the seasoned restaurant-goer will wonder whether this indicates lack of imagination. Not so.

The sweets have been simplified to show exactly what a talented chef can do with basic, good ingredients such as eggs, sugar, fresh fruit and quality chocolate.

The Hot English Strawberry Souffl with Strawberry Sorbet and Strawberry and Mint Sauce for example, is the first restaurant souffl I have had that doesn't just taste of sugar.

And the Vanilla Meringue with Roasted Early Blush Apricots and Shortbread is exactly what it should be - the meringue is light and fluffy, the apricots caramelised and gooey and there is a surprise topping of very delicate apricot sorbet.

There isn't a lot else to say except that it was all startlingly delicious.

So there is obviously something special at Calcot. The hotel has, after all, recently won the AA Restaurant of the Year award for 2005/6.

But over and above that, Calcot has all the ingredients to be the kind of place that you might start to frequent quite regularly as a local - a swanky main restaurant, a self-indulgent champagne bar, cosy lounges, a superb spa with courtyard hot tub and an informal pub-style bistro serving good-value lunches and evening meals.

And that, combined with good service and a beautiful setting, means more than any award.