I HAD longed to visit the Falcon Inn at Painswick for some time.

Driving slowly past in the bleakness of a winter evening, I had often glanced in through its splendid paned windows.

Inside always looked appealing. Diners leant conspiratorily over tables so that they might better listen to the conversation, their faces lit by the single candle that flickered on their table.

Once, I even imagined Mr Pickwick lounging at the bar with his fellow travellers, reflecting on the events of the day on their outing to sample life far from their familiar London haunts.

So when the chance came to meet a friend "somewhere between Stroud and Gloucester" I quickly suggested the Falcon.

The journey from Stroud along the A46 in the dark was as unpleasant as usual. The blackness was punctuated by blinding beams of wantonly powerful halogen headlamps, and the twisting A46 was pockmarked with potholes of the sort familiar to those endured by Pickwick and his chums in their hard-sprung carriage.

People considering visiting the pub should not be put off by the apparent lack of parking. A narrow alley off the main road at the Stroud side of the building leads to fair-sized car park.

Inside the pub we shrugged off our coats and scarves and enjoyed the welcoming warmth.

I ordered drinks, mine a splendid pint of Hook Norton bitter, and headed for our reserved table in the corner by the window.

Peering out of the window, I enjoyed the satisfaction of a goal fulfilled as I sat at one of the candlelit tables I had admired so often as I drove by in the darkness outside.

The Falcon's interior is as smart and classy as the outside. The bar is at the back, leaving the brighter front area clear for tables.

It gets the difficult is-it-a-pub or is-it-a-restaurant balance right. I wouldn't feel uncomfortable enjoying a quiet pint at the bar, but nor would I, as a diner, be distracted by those who visited just for a drink and a chat.

The atmosphere is convivial but calm, and probably not ideal for those seeking boisterous surroundings.

We settled in, swapped news (for rather a long time) and after a prompt from the waitress, concentrated on the menu.

She returned (after just the right interval) and, a very pleasant young woman, was polite and attentive throughout the rest of our visit.

Starters were all £6-£7, and included baked Camembert with salad and warm bread to share – a nice choice for winter's evening.

We had to get away early though, so went straight to the main course, where prices ranged from just under £15 to just under £20.

The choice of dishes was not the widest, but it was supplemented by several specials listed on chalkboards near the bar.

I plumped for park fillet in pink peppercorns with crisp cabbage and buttered new potatoes.

A good choice. It was a generous helping, one that even Mr Pickwick might have struggled to finish.

The pork was tender, with its flavour delicately enhanced by the peppercorn sauce.

I loved the crisp cabbage, and could have eaten a whole plate of it.

The potatoes, unlike so many of the bland specimens dumped on the side of diners' plates elsewhere, were decadently buttery and full of flavour.

Dessert prices ranged from just under £6 to just over £8 for a selection of cheeses, but time was pressing and our appetites sated.

We instead ordered coffee while we finished reminiscing and enjoying a few more luxurious minutes in the glow of candlelight in this fine old inn.

Falcon Inn, New Street, Painswick GL6 6UN. Tel 01452 814222
Visit www.falconpainswick.co.uk

How it rated

Quality of food 4
Quality of drink 3
Value for money 3
Atmosphere 3
Service 4

  • Ratings are out of five, five being excellent and one poor. Menus and prices change. Please check in advance.