Well heeled (From Wilts and Gloucestershire Standard)

Well heeled

Esther Barron meets a Cotswold woman for whom a move into shoemaking was a step in the right direction

Caroline Groves is wearing a pair of 1940's style black shoes that she has made for herself. The toes are rounded and the heel is just the right height to give a comfortable elevation, she says. They look very stylish and there is no other pair like them.

All her life Caroline has been involved in craft work and this has led her to set up her own business making bespoke shoes. Her workshop is based in Marylebone, London and from here she crafts her handmade shoes in a range of styles from elegant to exotic.

At weekends she returns to her family home in Chipping Campden and visits clients in the Cotswolds for fittings or to deliver their new shoes. In fine Cotswold tradition she comes from a highly artistic background.

Her father was an engineer and designer and her grandmother was a silversmith. In fact her great grandfather was a cabinet maker and was part of the Guild of Handicraft set up by CR Ashbee in 1902, which saw over 100 London craftsmen move from the capital to Chipping Campden to set up workshops.

As a child, Caroline was always making things and was fascinated by saddlery and hand stitch work. After her daughter was born in 1984 she started a small business making sheepskin jackets and reproduction flying jackets from World War Two.

She later joined up with shoemaker Bill Bird and became a partner in his business which specialized in making orthopaedic shoes for clients. Caroline visited customers in London each week and became aware of an old shoemaking shop in Marylebone.

"I was aware of this other shoe making business called T Savva of London. The shop was looking very tired and run down. I was looking to establish ourselves in London and wanted to do more interesting and finer work."

Caroline introduced herself to Tony Savva, who was planning his retirement, and he asked if she would like to take over the business. This she did with great enthusiasm and the company was eventually set up in her name in April last year.

As well as the business, she also inherited many old tools and pieces of machinery and thousands of lasts (a shoemaker's model for shaping a shoe).

When she first sees a client she takes careful foot measurements and photographs of their feet. She discusses styles and colours and makes several other visits to make sure the shoes fit perfectly.

Her clients are all women and include people seeking couture shoes through to women looking for period designs. Caroline also makes shoes for women needing smaller, larger or wider sizes and for brides. She has made shoes for theatre and film designers who dress West End actors and has a current commission for Billy Elliot the Musical.

Caroline is passionate about making shoes and with her small team of staff uses traditional craft methods which date back to the 19th century. The starting price for a first pair of bespoke shoes is £850 plus VAT.

"The first pair is the most expensive because you pay for a complete service with a number of fittings," Caroline said. "However, it does become cost effective and the longevity is much better than a high street shoe."

After our meeting Caroline will deliver a pair of black shoes. The client commissioned her to copy a pair of 1940's shoes she bought on e-bay. The result is stunning and it's hard to tell which is the antique pair.

Caroline Groves, 37 Chiltern Street, London. Call 020 79352329 or visit her website at www.carolinegroves.co.uk.