Reaching for the stars (From Wilts and Gloucestershire Standard)

Reaching for the stars

Essence tucks in at the award-winning restaurant at Whatley Manor

Few chefs can boast scooping a coveted Michelin star and a one-star Egon Ronay award within a matter of weeks, but that is exactly what local chef Martin Burge has done at exclusive hotel Whatley Manor.

Throughout his career, Martin has worked with top chefs, including John Burton Race and Raymond Blanc, and he has been building up to gaining his first Michelin star for some time. It seems Whatley Manor is just the place to do it.

Set between the rural Wiltshire towns of Malmesbury and Sherston, Whatley Manor was bought and restored by Christian Landolt in 2003, and has since become one of the Cotswolds' most exclusive places to stay and dine.

With a luxurious spa, eight suites and 15 rooms, Whatley can accommodate even the most demanding of guests. But it is in the dining room that the Manor's greatest asset is on show.

Martin Burge has created a menu that combines classical French cuisine with British flavours and a unique style. His passion for local ingredients means that only the best makes it onto the diners' plates.

Martin has spent considerable time producing a menu that is filled with creative ideas. Elegant starters such as Dived Scallops Roasted and served with Spiced Pumpkin Puree and a Light Curry Infusion use simple ideas to create a classy balance of flavours, and delicious alternatives such as Pan-Fried Foie Gras topped with Saucisson de Morteau dressed with Moelleux Raisins and Sauternes Sauce mean that there is something for every palate.

Main courses are every bit as unique, but still take essentially simple ideas to create something extraordinary. Classic flavours such as venison and pear are married with cauliflower puree and green peppercorn to create a mouth-watering dish that is far from ordinary.

For fish-lovers there is plenty to choose from, with dishes varying from St Pierre Roasted on the Bone and dressed with Langoustine Tails and Truffle Madeira Essence to Fillet of Sea Bass Steamed and topped with Oyster Ravioli and Foam served with a Red Wine Reduction.

Yet it is at the dessert course that Martin Burge and head pastry chef Nicholas du Rousseau really excel. Choosing from a Taste of Coffee and Chocolate (a selection of moreish desserts such as Coffee Ice Cream, Chocolate Fondant, Coffee Granita and Tiramisu) and Martin's very own Banana Souffle dressed with Popcorn Ice Cream and Caramelised Banana may be difficult, but you can rest assured that any choice will be a good one.

And with an extensive wine list to wash it down and many tastebud-tickling surprises along the way, there is plenty to attract even a visiting diner to Whatley Manor.

But if something less formal is more your style, Whatley's Le Mazot brasserie is for you. With a more relaxed eating area and the same delicious food, prices start at just £25 for a three-course lunch - perfect for those relaxed summer days spent in Whatley Manor's beautiful grounds.

So with two great accolades already under his belt at Whatley Manor, what is next for Martin?

"This is not enough for me. My next ambition is to achieve two stars in the dining room and recognition for Le Mazot," he says.

But Martin realises this is a tough challenge. "Most chefs have only one restaurant but my kitchen runs two. I realise that recognition in both would be a fairly unique achievement, but with the dedicated team I have here at Whatley I believe that it could be achieved."

And relaxing at this magnificent manor house with its exquisite food and atmosphere, it seems he could be right.

Whatley Manor, Easton Grey, Malmesbury Tel. 01666 822 888 www.whatleymanor.com